Tuesday, August 31, 2010

Nikon D3100 shows promise and brings optimism

Nikon D3100 with GP-1 (Image Source: Nikon, Inc.)


Nikon announces the D3100. It’s Nikon’s smallest and least expensive DSLR, targeted towards point & shoot users who want to step up to a DSLR. It’s an entry-level camera – no big deal, right? This camera has me surprised and excited! Why? Because…

  1. In terms of mega-pixels, the D3100 is second only to the D3X in Nikon’s line up. I’m hoping this means that the D90/D300 replacement is at least the same, if not more.
  2. New movie-mode options. All firsts for Nikon DSLR to do: 1080p, 30fps (720p and lower), MOV, H.264/MPEG-4 file format, and full-time servo AF.
  3. First DX camera to shoot up to ISO 12,800. I don’t know how usable it is, but at least it’s an option. Even though my camera shoots up to ISO 6400, I’ve never used it. Early ISO samples look impressive.
  4. Nikon’s newest image processor, EXPEED 2. 
Why is this significant? Because if Nikon can make an entry-level camera with these specs, imagine what the D90, D300s, or D700 replacement will be. The release of the D3100 should make photographers very happy, whether they plan on purchasing it or not. It’s a sign of great things to come, at Nikon.



Looking at the table, I believe the entry-level D3100 and the mid-level D90 are quite comparable. With the newer D3100, you’ll lose the better viewfinder, the better FPS, and better LCD resolution found on the D90, but you’ll gain more mega-pixels, higher ISO capabilities, better movie mode, and SDXC card support all in a smaller, lighter, and less expensive package. Until we see more image samples, these specs may mean nothing. However, considering that Nikon has used its new image-processing engine, EXPEED 2, I’m optimistic that the image quality should be great.

Sunday, July 4, 2010

Creating a collage with Photoshop CS3 and up


I've been creating collages after a shoot as a part of my workflow for quite sometime now. The collage that I create is actually used as a "summary" to help me with memory and organization. Way back, I created a simple contact sheet. Then, I found out that Google's Picasa can create a nice looking collage with just a simple click of a button. However, I've been having problems with Picasa on my Mac (Snow Leopard, I don't know if that has anything to do with it), so I started looking for a way to create a collage with photoshop and came across "BnBig Picture" action from PanosFX.com. It takes a little more time, but I think the results are beautiful and worthwhile.

Programs and files required:
1. Photoshop CS3 or higher
2. Adobe Bridge or Lightroom


MAC OSX
WINDOWS

They’ll be two steps to creating a collage. First, you’ll have three choices: Adobe Bridge, Adobe Lightroom or Adobe Photoshop for selecting and creating a “contact sheet”. Here, I’ll show how to create a contact sheet using either Bridge or Lightroom. For Photoshop, just open 25 pictures in PS and select the “Matrix” action that comes with “Big Pictures”. It’ll pretty much do what Bridge or Lightroom does. However, I wouldn’t recommend the Photoshop method; depending on the size of the pictures and the speed of the computer, it can take some time before you get your contact sheet. Second, you’ll be using Photoshop to turn the contact sheet into a collage.

STEP ONE: Bridge or Lightroom
              


1.   Start up Adobe Bridge and select 25 pictures, preferably in the same orientation (either landscape or portrait). If different orientations are selected, you’ll have to rotate them later (click here on how to easily rotate your photos). However, if you’re using the different perspectives at the end of the Big Pictures action, then you’ll want it in the same orientation.

2.   Select: TOOLS - PHOTOSHOP - CONTACT SHEET II (picture)

·      If you're using either CS4 or CS5, and don't see CONTACT SHEET II, you'll need to install Optional Plug-ins.
                                                                                                                                             
·      If you get a "command "" is not currently available", set photoshop so that it opens in 32-bit mode.





3.   If your photos are landscape orientation, then make sure your document settings are also landscape orientation and vice versa with portrait. Also, make sure you’re creating a 5X5 contact sheet. Press Ok and your contact sheet will be created in Photoshop.

4.   Save your contact sheet, close the window and Go to STEP TWO: Photoshop



1.   Start up Adobe Lightroom and select 25 pictures, preferably in the same orientation (either landscape or portrait). If different orientations are selected, you’ll have to rotate them later (click here on how to easily rotate your photos). However, if you’re using the different perspectives at the end of the Big Pictures action, then you’ll want it in the same orientation.

2.   Go to the PRINT Module, navigate to the Print Job panel towards the bottom right hand corner and select print to JPEG File.

3.   Towards the bottom left hand corner, press the Page Setup button and select your paper size (borderless option if available). If your photos are landscape orientation, then make sure your orientation settings are also landscape orientation and vice versa with portrait. Press Ok.

4.   Below are my settings for the different panels. Select what’s best for you, but in the Layout, a 5X5 grid is a must.


5.   Press the Print to File button, save your contact sheet and Go to STEP TWO: Photoshop




Photoshop:

1.   Download the action file "BnBig Picture" and unzip.

2.   Open Actions Palette.
a.   WINDOW - ACTIONS or
b.   Option F9 or Alt F9

3.   Select Load Actions (picture). Navigate to the unzipped downloaded file and select “The BnBig picture.atn”

4.   There should now be “PFx_BIG PICTURES_free” in the actions tab. Select flat or curled and follow the instructions and press play selection button.



5.   Once the action has stopped, navigate to the History Panel and you’ll have a few perspectives to choose. If you have both landscape and portrait orientation in the collage, you’ll need to rotate the photos so they match.




1.   Once the action has been completed and the collage has been created, you’ll notice that each photo is on its own layer. The action groups all layers, so right-click on the folder and ungroup layers (picture).

2.   Now you can command or control left-click any photo on the collage to select that photo’s layer, and then rotate.

Tuesday, June 1, 2010

Global Positioning System Unit

I've been looking to buy a GPS unit for my Nikon D300s for awhile now, and after reading a lot of reviews and checking out various forums, I've finally decided on the Solmeta Geotagger N2. There are a lot of options and devices available when it comes to geotagging photos. There’s the inconvenient, time consuming and inexpensive route, and there’s the convenient and slightly more expensive route. Before I made my decision, it was down to two products: either the Nikon GP-1 or the Someta Geotagger.


I chose the Solmeta Geotagger N2 for a few reasons. First, it has its own internal battery, so no worries on draining the camera’s battery. However, if the internal battery in the N2 runs low, it will automatically switch to the camera’s battery as the power source. Second, it has a 2-axis electronic compass that captures heading.  Lastly, it has an auto indoor GPS signal fixing ability. This means that if you lose your GPS signal (e.g. inside a building), the N2 will use the last location fix for each photo taken until a GPS signal is reacquired from the satellites.


GP-1
N2
Acquired Data:


  Latitude
YES
YES
  Longitude
YES
YES
  Altitude
YES
YES
  Heading
NO
YES
  Time Information
YES
YES
Acquisition Time:


  Cold Start
45 Secs.
42 Secs.
  Hot Start
5 Secs.
1 Sec.
  Power Source
Camera Body
Internal Battery
Dimensions:
2x1.8x1 In.
2.2x1.4x0.7 In.
Price:
$195
$145


What I like:
-       The longitude and latitude is more accurate than expected.
-       I’ve been able to acquire a satellite signal indoors.
-       Acquisition is fairly quick.
-       The quality and build is good.
-       Acquired data is automatically embedded into the exif.

What I don’t like:
-       The position of the cable when attached to the camera.
-       When mounted on the hotshoe, the N2 doesn’t allow clearance for the popup flash.
-       Needs to be on the hotshoe for the heading info to be acquired (accurately).
-       It comes with a clip to allow the GPS to be attached to your camera strap, but I find it awkward to use.

Overall, I’m very satisfied with the Somleta Geotagger N2. Previously, I used a data logger, Qstarz BT-Q1000, to tag my photos. I liked the fact that with a data logger, I can put it in my pocket and it wouldn’t be in my way, and also that if there were more than one camera body, tagging could be done to all pictures. However, it also has its negatives. You have to download the data from the data logger, and then embed it the photos. It’s not overly complicated, but it can be time consuming, inconvenient, and a hassle, especially on a Mac (Qstarz’s software isn’t compatible with Mac). But with the N2, all the GPS information is written straight to the exif once the shutter button is pressed.

Also included, but not pictured, is a CD with instructions and software 

Since I couldn’t find any Solmeta dealers in the US, I ordered directly through their website. For $145, you get a nice little package that includes: the Geotagger N2, a connector (N2 to camera), a USB cable, a remote shutter control, pouch to store the device, a software CD, and a “gift” box that holds all the item    s. With ordinary shipping (from Hong Kong), it took exactly 10 business days (website said 15-20) to arrive at my door step here in Southern California.  With fast shipping (an extra $20), it should only take 3-4 working days. If you don’t need data on heading, you could save $45 and go with the Geotagger N1. 

A picture from Places in Aperture 3